Visiting the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is something I do once a month. It is one of my fondest activities. First of all, getting there from Villa Hippocampo is a joy in itself. It’s a 30-minute walk, which might sound long at first, but every step is worth it. You start in the heart of Villefranche, where everything feels lively and local. Then you walk along the bay and the road takes you gently uphill toward Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, with views of the sea popping through the trees and gorgeous old villas along the way. There are pine trees, quiet paths, and the smell of flowers— the whole walk is very special.
And then when you get there, the villa itself is stunning. It was built in the early 1900s by Béatrice de Rothschild, who had a real passion for art and beauty. She filled the place with Old Master paintings, Sèvres porcelain, Gobelins tapestries, and antique furniture that looked like it belong in a royal palace. The building was inspired by Italian palazzos, with a bit of Venetian and Renaissance flair thrown in. It’s pink on the outside, elegant on the inside, and it overlooks the sea in almost every direction. Each time I go, I take dozens of the same pictures!
But in addition to the villa itself, the real magic is in the gardens.
There are nine themed gardens, and each one has its own vibe. There’s a grand French Garden with fountains that dance to music (every 20 minutes), a shady Spanish Garden with old clay pots and quiet corners, and a Japanese Garden with a koi pond and tiny bridges. One minute you’re in Provence with rosemary and olive trees, the next you’re next to giant cacti in the Exotic Garden. There’s a Rose Garden, too, filled with pink blooms and statues, and a quirky little Lapidary Garden with stone faces and comical characters
The whole place feels so vibrant and simultaneously peaceful. It is a bit surreal, and just endlessly beautiful.
You can have lunch at the Tea Room inside Béatrice’s old dining room—tea, quiche, and a little lemon tart. You can also sit outside under the orange trees if it’s sunny. There’s also a spot where they do summer opera performances like Les Azuriales Opera Festival, and even a Painters’ Day each June, where artists are invited to work in the gardens.
Whether you’re into history, art, flowers, or just need a peaceful moment by the sea, Villa Ephrussi has something. And honestly, the walk there from Villa Hippocampo makes it all feel even more special.
