One of the things I love most about staying at Villa Hippocampo is how easy it is to enjoy some of Villefranche-sur-Mer’s remarkable historical sites. Right from the villa, you can catch glimpses of one of the town’s most important landmarks—the Citadel of Villefranche, officially known as the Citadel Saint-Elme.
This 16th-century fortress, perched above the bay, has been watching over Villefranche since 1557. It was built by the Duke of Savoy as a defense against pirate attacks and foreign invasions, back when Villefranche was considered one of the most strategic military ports in the south of France. In fact, the Citadel didn’t just protect the town—it was a key stronghold for the entire region.
From Villa Hippocampo, it’s just a quick ten-minute walk down the public stairs to reach the Citadel. And let me tell you—when you arrive, it really does feel a little magical. The fortress itself is stunning, but what takes your breath away is the view: the Citadel looks out over what many people (including me!) would call one of the most beautiful bays in the world.
Today, the Citadel is still very much a part of everyday life here. It houses the mayor’s office, a number of small museums, and spaces for art exhibitions and cultural events. In the summer, the Citadel comes alive with open-air concerts, art shows, film screenings under the stars, and performances at the Théâtre de Verdure, the open-air theater inside its walls.
It’s a great place to wander. You’ll find courtyards, gardens, a small chapel, and plenty of little nooks perfect for taking in the architecture or capturing some creative photography. And if it feels a little familiar as you explore, that might be because it’s also a bit of a movie star! Scenes from the James Bond film Never Say Never Again were filmed right here.
One of my favorite evening routines is to stroll from Villa Hippocampo down through town, pass through the Citadel grounds, and exit onto the smaller harbor tucked behind it. From there, it’s just a few steps to some of my favorite local restaurants, where a fish dinner by the sea is the perfect way to end the day.
Best of all, visiting the Citadel is free, and it’s open almost every day of the year from about 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. It’s one of those places that’s easy to take for granted when you live here, but every time I walk through it, I’m reminded just how special it is—and how lucky we are to have it.
If you’re staying at Villa Hippocampo, make sure you set aside some time to explore the Citadel. It’s not just a tourist spot—it’s a living, breathing part of Villefranche’s history and charm, and it’s waiting just a short walk away.
